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Hakone is one of the easiest places to experience a traditional Japanese inn, or ryokan, within a day’s reach of Tokyo. But ryokan differ a great deal. This guide explains what to compare, so that you can choose the one that suits your trip.

Step 1: Choose the area first

Hakone is a wide mountain area, not a single town. Hot-spring districts such as Hakone-Yumoto, Gora and Sengokuhara are spread out, and getting between them takes time. Pick the district that fits your plans, then look for a ryokan there. Check the distance from the nearest station or bus stop on each ryokan’s own page.

Step 2: Look closely at the room

Room types vary widely. Some rooms have a private bath, sometimes outdoors, fed by hot-spring water. Others rely on shared baths. If a private bath matters to you, confirm that the room itself has one, and whether its water comes from a hot spring. Ask about the bedding style (futon on tatami, or beds) if this matters to you.

Step 3: Understand the bath rules

Hot-spring baths in Japan have etiquette: you wash before entering, and bathing is without swimwear. Some ryokan do not allow guests with tattoos in shared baths, while others do, or offer private baths. Rules differ, so check the policy before you book.

Step 4: Check the meals

Many ryokan include dinner and breakfast in the room rate. Meals are often a central part of the stay, and are served at set times. If you have food allergies or dietary needs, ask in advance, because menus are often prepared ahead.

Step 5: Plan how you will travel

You can reach Hakone by private car, or by train. The Odakyu Romancecar is a limited express train from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto. On the 70000 series GSE, 16 observation seats at the front and 16 at the rear give a wide view. A reserved seat costs the standard limited express surcharge of 1,200 yen for an adult one way from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto, plus your fare; there is no extra charge for the observation seats. Reservations open at 10 a.m. one month before travel. Because there are few of these seats, book early.

The Hakone Freepass (2 days) from Shinjuku is 7,100 yen for an adult, and it does not include the Romancecar surcharge. Prices can change, so check the official Odakyu page before you travel.

If you prefer door-to-door comfort, a private car with a driver is another option, and can be arranged separately.

Where to book

Booking links for ryokan in Hakone will be added to this guide soon.

Sources: Odakyu Electric Railway (Hakone Freepass; Romancecar). Photos: Pexels.